Volume 1 Number 1  
Winter 2004  

Page 7  

Some prefer it in hemming as well, because its very short length can be helpful to work small stitches.  Betweens range in size from 1 to 12.

The sharp (sized 1 to 12) is just as handy for embroidery as it is for sewing tasks.  The larger the needle, the larger its diameter and the longer it is; but the eye on a sharp doesn't change much in size. Thicker embroidery threads require a different type of needle.  

Crewel needles (also called embroidery - sized 1 to 10) handle from one to several strands of floss.  Although the eyes aren't normally that large — a lower number means a fatter, longer needle. Like its cousin the sharp, the eye doesn't change much throughout the size range. Threading larger pearl or broder threads through the narrow oval can be disheartening at best.

Although there are crewel needles, the best needle for use with thick threads, including crewel wool, are chenille needles (sized 13 to 28). These needles are also used for:

Their thick size ensures an adequate hole is made in the cloth so that the thread (or ribbon) doesn't wear out with repeated stitching.

Blunt needles are tapestry needles, used predominantly in counted and canvas work, often in needlelace.  They are in the same size range as chenilles: 13 to 28.

Straw (sized 3 to 12) needles come from the millinary trade. They are perfect for bullions because the eye doesn't bulge out, allowing it to slide through the coils of the thread without distortion.  Their long length enables many coils for the very long bullions used predominantly in Brazilian embroidery.  These needles are also

of use when embroidering finished objects, such as a stuffed toy. Their longer length helps to fish the needle through and come back out where you need it.

Although there are needles made specifically for beading, the finer sharps or betweens work equally well in many beading situations.

The true test of knowing what needle to use is understanding its common use, then choosing a size and type that fits how you approach and use a needle and thread, the task, and thread. If directions call for a certain needle type and you are having difficulty, then switching to a different type might work better for you.

Another consideration is the size of the eye. The general rule of thumb is that the thread should fit comfortably and leave about 30% free space available within the eye. This puts less strain on the thread, allowing it to slip freely within the eye. It should not slip so easily you must rethread continually.

Round, fat threads sometimes need to be flattened a bit to fit into an oval eye, but once threaded, are perfectly comfortable within the rounder portion of the oval.

A final consideration is the ground fabric. On tightly woven grounds, you need a needle fat enough to accomodate the thread so it doesn't get too much abrasion, but thin enough not to damage the fabric.  How do you know if you are doing something for the first time and there are no instructions? Test it out.

There are many types of needles made for specific tasks.  This discussion only introduces you to the common needles that are a part of every needleworker's basket.

Continued Page 13 - Column 2
Pattern - Page 8